Travel – One Thousand Golden Highways

My Best Key West Travel Secret for your next trip!

My Favorite Key West Secret

By Mary Paul | November 30, 2016 | Comments 2 comments

It’s a rainy, wet, dreary day today, the perfect kind of morning to curl up on the couch with some Earl Grey and Jane Austin or “Seven Years in Tibet“. Or, alternatively, we can cast our minds to beautiful places far away, whether to daydream, plan, or remember. We can visit tropical wonderlands like Key West.

Today I’m going to tell you a secret, a traveler’s secret. You know my favorite kind of secret? When you go somewhere you’ve never been in your whole life and you can still show someone something amazing your first time there, something totally unexpected and marvelous?

This was a something passed on to me and now I can share it with you. But let’s keep it special, shall we?

The island of Key West is at the end of one of the most gorgeous road trips in the whole world. If you’ve never been to a tropical paradise, you may be unprepared for the turquoise blue of the water or the impeccable visibility, falsely attributing it to some kind of Instagram filter. You may be surprised by the colorful birds and fish, the treacherous humidity, the lazily hanging mosses.

Personally, I was most surprised when I ran over a crocodile with my rented bike.

My first trip to Key West was supposed to be a weekend in Maine. It was my birthday and I was excited to return to Acadia National Park… but then rain happened. When my traveling companion glanced at the radar and delivered the bad news, I asked how far the green splotch on the map went – Vermont? Wet. Cincinnati? Soaking. Virginia Beach? Damp, at best. Well, then, where did the giant green splotch end?

“Charleston,” he replied.

“Charleston,” I said, tasting the distant city on my tongue. “So we drive to Charleston,” I said, “and we see how far we get.”

Well, we made it to Charleston in time for a delicious cup of morning coffee and doughnuts, and, with the wanderer’s creed of “just a bit farther” we continued to Savannah, St Augustine, Miami … and Key West. A mere spur-of-the-moment 1,500 miles.

Accommodations:

Miami itself is further from Key West than one might think, 3.5 hours drive without traffic. If there is any traffic, you’re done for, because there is exactly one main road that goes through the islands (route 1, of course). It’s also two hours between the first key (Key Largo) and the final one (Key West) so plan accordingly, especially if you have a flight out of MIA to worry about. Now, for cheaper accommodations, I recommend staying off the final island if possible. Key West is the busiest, most popular, and most expensive of the chain. Do visit but you may not want to stay there. As for options, AirBNB is a good bet and there is at least one hostel in Key West though I have not been there. Many hotels and B&Bs will include bonuses like free fishing pole and tackle, kayaks, and bikes with stay. Drink more water than you think you’ll need, wear bug spray, and beware the heat.

Things not to miss:

Snorkle and scuba dive – If you come to this island paradise with any interest in diving, DON’T MISS IT. If you’ve never been snorkling and you can swim, I highly recommend giving it a try. It’s some of the most exciting diving on the planet. You put your face in the water and it’s like watching National Geographic. For around $40 per person, you can join a diving group for maybe four hours out on the water. It’s fantastic. One other pro tip- don’t forget to reapply your reef-friendly sunscreen every few hours. The water can act like a magnifying lens, frying your back as you paddle merrily along, which you won’t be feeling for several hours (and oh boy, then you’re going to feel it for sure!)

sunburned couple — Look at those sad faces! Don’t be like us- Reapply your sunscreen regularly!

If you’re not hitting the reef and you still need sun care, check out “Sun Bum” sunscreen. It’s in many beach shops there and California and if you don’t mind spending a little extra, you, too, can smell like a very expensive banana (and you’re going to need their cooling lotion if you missed that last tip about reapplying sunscreen!) Overpriced? Almost definitely, but like the scent of “Sex Wax”, it instantly transports me to warm beaches and endless sun, which in February is much cheaper than a ticket to Orlando!

The Hemmingway House is absolutely worth a visit if you’re a book nerd, manly man, or cat fanatic and The Green Parrot exists for those who still need more of a “Papa” fix. My own favorite hobby is walking through town, admiring the stately colonial architecture, and peaking into the lush pocket gardens full of mangroves and tropical flowers. Naturally, you also need to spend time on the beach. Walking (or biking) over Seven-Mile Bridge if you’re hardy enough is unforgettable because visibility allows you to see every fish scooting along the sand beneath you. Chartered water sports in Key west (parasailing, paragliding, boat charters and rentals) are also cheaper than almost anywhere else in the US.

Lastly, a quirky piece of Americana in the restaurant Better than Sex. Like Madame Puddifoot’s in the Harry Potter movies, Better than Sex is designed as a date spot. If you found a hot date on your trip (or imported one with you) bring them here to this dessert-based placed for naughty-themed cocktails and the best chocolate grilled cheese of your life. Now, just because it’s a date place doesn’t mean this can’t just be a giggle-worthy time with a good friend or a very special moment between you and your cheesecake. No one will judge in this candle-lit atmosphere so thick you can barely see your delicious meal. Each time we go, the ambiance gets darker- this last time they gave up entirely and swapped the paper menus for Ipads.

A couple dine at "Better than Sex" — “Melanie? You look lovely by iPad light.”
(“Better than Sex” image courtesy “The Daily City”)

Eat some conch fritters and key lime pie, have a good margarita, listen to live music, do some water sports, check out the crazy sunset parties on the beach, and…

Oh, did you think I forgot the secret I said I’d tell you?

Here it is: when you get to Key West itself, Duval street is the main area and “party town”. There are all kinds of art galleries and tchotchke stores on Duval. There is also a Starbucks.

Near sunset time, go into this Starbucks, sneak out the back door into the Hotel, and go straight into the elevator on the other side. Head to the top floor. Stay sneaky. Hum “Mission Impossible” if that helps.

Wah-la. You are in one of the best and highest places in town to grab a drink and watch the sunset over the whole city. They frequently have live bands playing and they fix a mean cocktail.

Have you been to Key West lately? Did I miss anything important? What’s the farthest you’ve gone on a spontaneous road trip? Tell me in the comments.

a beautiful beach sunset with palm trees — Really is just another day in paradise. So why not head to the Keys? If you’re American, you don’t even need a passport. Photo credit: bmward_2000.

How to find great food when traveling

By Mary Paul | November 26, 2016 | Comments 1 comment

If you’re like me, food is one of the best parts about traveling.

Whether you’re trying something new or just hunting down the best fresh, local ingredients, good food can give you an insight into new cultures and make you feel far from home in a good way.

Picking a good place when you’re away can put the pressure on- you’re only around a limited time with a limited budget and a bad meal can sour your day. Even worse, getting caught in a “tourist trap” can give you subpar food at high prices.

If you don’t know anyone in town and you don’t know the area, how do you find a good place?

Fear not for I am a broke foodie and have made finding good food away from home an art form! Here are my secrets:

amazing pinxos great food — Food in Spain is super cheap and delicious. Check out these pinxos- they were about $1 each!

1) Walk around:

This is my most important tip. Don’t leave finding a place to the last minute when possible– hanger can make for bad decision-making. Instead, keep meals in the back of your mind as you explore. You’re going to have to eat some time, right? If you see a good-looking place, glance at the menu and start getting a feel for typical prices and food in the area. This will help you not get ripped off. Definitely take a look at what people are ordering as well- if it makes you drool, what you order will probably be good too. Don’t be afraid to follow your nose!

2) Use Yelp:

Most restaurants are clustered in certain areas. Maybe you already have a feel for the busy places from exploring, but if not, use yelp or other review sites (when possible) to find where the food is. Definitely look at reviews if there are any, but don’t just go by stars- check and read some of the bad reviews too. Make sure none of the mentioned issues are ones you’re not willing to deal with.

3) Never feel like you have to eat at a place before you see the menu

Sticker shock hurts! Often menus are posted outside or you can ask a waiter to see one. If you sit, are handed a menu, and the prices or offerings are not what you want, head out and find a better place. You may not be in town again, right? Don’t be guilted into a bad meal or one outside of your budget.

4) Location location location:

Often restaurants right next to a famous area or monument (I’m looking at you, the Latin Quarter) are awful. They’re designed for travelers who don’t know any better. Even the better restaurants in touristy areas may be overpriced. Don’t be afraid to go down the side alleys for a better deal and better time.

5) Do what the locals do:

Talk to people in your hostel or leaders of your walking tours about where they like to eat most (phrasing it like that will hopefully avoid steering you to generic tourist options). For the most part avoid chains. When possible, beware places with menus in several languages, especially those that only list the most twee dishes of the area like “fondue” and “cassoulet” or “authentic paella“. Beware the word “authentic” at all cost! How does the menu look? Is it updated day-to-day with seasonal ingredients or does it look like a diner menu full of clip-art that hasn’t changed since 1998? Don’t underestimate local options like food carts and markets- if a food spot is busy and full of locals, it’s probably a great place and even cheap places can have incredible food.

When choosing a place to eat, any and all of these rules can be broken. Sometimes a tourist location is located so well or is so beautiful, it’s worth the risk. Sometimes there’s a very specific deal or menu item you want to try or you don’t have many options to choose from. Don’t forget that a bad meal isn’t the end of the world!

My final recommendation is that we all could stand to broaden our palettes and eat more local food. Food from home is likely to be more expensive and not as good. Besides, did you really come half-way around the world to eat a crappy hamburger at McDonald’s? Before you choose your next meal, remember that food is an intrisic part of a place’s culture. As a traveler, an adventurer, an explorer, we should celebrate that.

How about you, what was your best food find on the road? What was your worst food disaster? Tell me in the comments!

-M

How to not kill your spouse on the road

By Mary Paul | September 8, 2016 | Comments 3 comments

Ah, the joys of traveling with a friend or partner! Although going solo is a pleasure in itself, having someone to share memories with for a lifetime is fantastic and can be safer and more comfortable than starting out alone.

However, we’re all familiar with the problems that can come from traveling with others– Maybe they want to take things slowly and you’d rather run around. Maybe they prefer traveling at a higher level of luxury than you can afford or aren’t interested in the kinds of activities you are. Maybe they’re not as fit or adventurous and may hold you back from doing things you’re excited about.

Small nuances like someone who talks all the time when you want quiet aren’t even noticeable until you’ve spent 48 hours with a person and can lead to vicious blow-outs.

I get surprised when people ask me how I can spend so much time alone with my husband, Brian. After getting used to our life, I forget that it’s not the norm- We’ve spent months traveling as just the two of us when some partners and spouses I know barely get to spend 24 hours in a row together. Brian and I got our travel lives started early- two weeks after I asked him on a date, Brian asked me to come to Las Vegas with him for a week. In fact, it was on that Vegas trip I knew we were destined for great things because Brian, terrified of heights, offered to go on the zipline over Old Vegas with me.

When I realized how white-knuckled he was when it was our turn, I asked him, “Wait, why are you doing this if you’re so afraid of heights?“

And he answered, “Well, if we’re going to have adventures together the rest of our lives, I figured I’d better start now!“

(COME ON GUYS IS THAT NOT A KEEPER??)

But I digress:

How do you travel with a partner and avoid wanting to kill them?

Much of the prep of a good trip happens long before you get to the airport. Good research and solid communication sets you up for a good time before you get there. Many of the questions are the same ones you should ask yourself when planning any trip, even if you’re going alone.

Questions to ask yourself and your travel partner:

What do I want out of this trip? What are my biggest must-do experiences?
Are you going to Italy for the food? Are you really into art museums? Has it always been your dream to sit in a hot spring and watch the Northern Lights over Reykjavik? Being real and honest about your top priorities makes sure they won’t be skipped. You may need to trade and negotiate with you travel partner to make sure you both get some of what you want. The earlier in the process you do so, the happier everyone will be. Of course, some flexibility is still key!
Which areas am I most likely to splurge on? Which am I okay saving money on?
Maybe you have an enormous budget and can do whatever you want. More than likely, though, you’ll have to set priorities. Which is more important to you: a fancy hotel or some amazing dinners? Do you want to spend time shopping in flea markets and boot sales or on the Champs Elysee? Be realistic about your budgets and always give yourself some wiggle-room in case of emergencies and unexpected costs. Are you two okay with splitting meals? That can be a great way to try a wider variety or higher quality of food than you might otherwise.
Am I an early bird or a night owl?
This one is easy to forget about but can lead to significant frustrations. No one wants to be sitting around, waiting for someone for hours. Also, if you know you snore, do your partner a favor and grab some nose-strips! Avoid the temptation: sometimes going full-day-early-morning-up-all-night is doable, but only for a short while. Any trip a week or more is going to require some down time if you don’t want to crash (and you may want to account for some jet lag)!
What’s my “activity level”?
Some people have an entirely different idea of what the word “vacation” means. I am one of those crazy types who loves exploring cities by foot for days upon days (and miles upon miles.) Only recently (as we go for longer trips) have I learned the value of taking it easy now and then, for Brian’s sake as much as mine. Some mornings we sit in a cafe and read. Some afternoons we lie on the beach in the sun. Most days, we explore as much of the city as we possibly can, usually by foot or by bicycle. Some people on vacation want nothing more than to be fed mixed drinks through a straw poolside for a week. There is no wrong way to travel, but understanding expectations in advance will avoid bumping of heads later.
How flexible am I?
Some people are planners: they want to know exactly where they’ll be staying, what they’re eating for dinner, and which museum they’re going to see when they get up every morning. Some people fly by the seat of their pants and do whatever looks good that moment. If someone gets panicked about not knowing where they’ll be staying in advance, book a night or two ahead. No matter which style of planning suits you, to avoid conflict, plan on where you’re going to eat before anyone gets hangry. Food rage is a real thing when traveling in groups of any size!
Keep talking!
No matter what happens on the road (and anything can happen on the road) be prepared to listen and communicate clearly about your needs. No one is a mind reader and learning to be patient, to explain yourself in a nice way before tempers flare can save whole vacations. Remember your partner is relying on your to have a good trip too!

Do you travel with partners or friends? How do you choose who to travel with? What have you enjoyed most about traveling with others? Do you have any horror stories? How did you deal with them? Tell me in a comment!

How do I travel so much?

By Mary Paul | September 8, 2016 | Comments 0 Comment

Here’s a hint: it’s not because I make a fortune. I don’t have a trust fund or a secret sugar daddy (though I’m sure my mom is still waiting for me to get one of those). I don’t “know someone” in the industry to get great deals. So my great secret? I’ve learned to make travel a priority and I know that the first step out the door is always the hardest.

This wasn’t always who I was. When I was eight, budding artist that I was, I drew tons of pictures of exactly how I envisioned my future self: an awkwardly busty blonde in a slinky red dress, taking my fancy friends to Paris and London and New York (which was equally exotic at that point) in limos, probably by 17, at which point I’d have two kids and live in a yacht by 22.

Well, firstly, I’m a brunette and maybe I don’t prioritize limo rides nearly as often as I should. As for busty: well … at least I can buy those at Victoria Secret when I need to, am I right?
But I am wearing a pair of pants I love from Spain, a copper bracelet from London, and comfortable sweater from Paris. I have friends all over the world and I know any time I put a few hundred bucks aside, I can hop on a plane and go pretty much anywhere. I know that I can go to any cafe on the planet and figure out how to order a coffee the way I like it. I know that if something happens in a country halfway around the world, I can ask someone nearby for their perspective.

However, this didn’t happen for me at 17. It didn’t even happen at 22. I was deep into my twenties before I started reading and studying and understanding what was out there, before technology caught up in a big way to make travel easier, faster, and cheaper. I had a suspicion that something wasn’t right in how I was arranging my life, that this couldn’t be all there was. After falling down the rabbit hole of “The Four Hour Workweek” and discovering the wide world of lifestyle hackers, I found my tribe. Even after all that, however, I still had to work up the courage to step out the door.

Now, as my life becomes more flexible and digital and as I meet more of the thousands of digital nomads and long-term travelers around the planet, it becomes easier and easier to call myself a citizen of the world. People are totally amazed when I show them just how cheap and simple travel really can be!

The more you travel, the more you travel. All it takes is that first step with itchy feet- Maybe you start by exploring your own city, then take a day trip to the larger city nearby. Next, you explore the state, the neighboring states, the country – (or you can just skip this, and go further. Some people need baby steps!) But remember, if you can figure out how to get around in Boston, you can figure out New York. If you can figure out L.A. and Chicago, you can understand London or Sydney. Paris and Hong Kong aren’t much more difficult. All cities, to some extent, are alike, and once you learn to “play charades” in a language you don’t know and the basics of protecting yourself in urban touristic areas (both of which I will be writing about) you’re all out of excuses.

So where have you always wanted to go? What has made you put it off? If someone gave you a free ticket tomorrow to your dream destination, what would you do there? Tell me in a comment!

-M

So who are we?

By Mary Paul | September 8, 2016 | Comments 0 Comment

We are Brian and Mary, two world wanderers and adventure-seekers who are always looking for the way to live a better, more fulfilling life, whether that’s through mindfulness, better efficiency practices, or new technology. Our unusual lifestyle has lead us through twenty years of freelancing and project management, a 9200-mile road trip around the US (with a two-year-old), two and a half months backpacking Europe, and many other wacky adventures. The people we’ve met, places we’ve been, experiences we’ve had, and things we’ve learned have transformed us into who we are today.

We are so excited, so inspired by the things we discover that make our lives richer and more interesting, that we want to share them with others. After fielding hundreds of questions, we’ve decided to start a blog to share with all of you and to show you how easy it is to completely transform your life.

One Thousand Golden Highways

By Mary Paul | September 6, 2016 | Comments 0 Comment

It’s not easy being thirty these days.

Late twenties into early midlife is when the people in our lives begin to make deep shifts– some are living with parents and never really left college life, some are heavily focused on career and going out every night, some are overwhelmed by new families, some are starting over, and some have found themselves going to bed early and telling kids to get off their lawns.

It seems like the market is shifting beneath our feet, as though the world we grew up in of bleeping modems and corded telephones, of stable vocations, predictable career paths and pensions, is gone forever. As those older than us start calling it quits and those younger than us get hired as cheaper, faster labor, we have to start asking ourselves:

Are we getting left behind? Can we ever actually catch up? How can we save for retirement, something our parents told us to start doing when we were twenty, when we’re barely getting by now? How can we start a family when we can’t afford to buy a house? How can we make a million dollars when the only way to negotiate a real raise these days is to quit and get a new job?

I am here to tell you there is a better way. After seeing the suffering of those around me and questioning myself and my own struggles, I found the truth:

The world we live in has changed. By putting blinders on and ignoring it, by faithfully using the same tools and following the same paths our parents did, we will never get beyond the treadmill. The game has changed and there are new rules. I am here to find them out, to show you the people who are discovering the new rules and how to use them to your own advantage. The key here is not “keeping up with the Joneses” but to have the Joneses spend all their time speculating on how you can possibly afford to always be in Tahiti anyway. You could tell them, but would they really believe you?

-M & B